Thursday, July 7, 2011

Libby’s Superlatives list: The Banana Pancake Backpacking Trail

Finally, after six months of planning and saving up money, after exchanging 228 private FB thread messages, after catching a fever just three days before our departure… We have done the toughest challenge in our lives yet: going backpacking for two weeks in Mainland South East Asia on a shoestring budget.

Being in those four countries, four capital cities, four provinces; spending time in numerous temples, wats, beaches, museums, hawker stalls, markets, guesthouses; riding tuk-tuks, buses, trains, elephants; meeting locals, monks, kids street vendors, fellow backpackers… All I could say is that it was the BEST and (and some, the worst) 14 days of my life.

So here’s the Ultimate List on the Banana Pancake Trail, according to me:

Best Place to Catch the Sunset In: Phromthep Cape in Phuket, Andaman Coast, Thailand. After a long day at the Patong, Karon, and Kata beaches, what a better way to end the day in the southernmost viewpoint of Phuket. It’s my favorite free show and it’s showing every evening.


One of the most photographed capes in Thailand.

Most scammed country: Thailand. Oh! If you think the deal is too good to be true, then it probably is. Don’t be fooled by a decent-looking taxi driver who will approach you offering to ride his service. We told him we want to go to the Grand Palace. And his spiel? The attraction is closed since it is Buddha’s birthday and he’s giving us a bargain tour elsewhere. Then he’ll get mad at you and drop you off somewhere else if you don’t give in. And then there’s another scam in Patpong. I’ll just tell you about it in person.

Best selling drink: Thai Milk Tea! Best to drink it after being under the sweltering sun. They can be found everywhere in the streets of Thailand. It can’t be compared to Serinitea, Happy Lemon, Zen Tea, etc.

Best form of breakfast or merienda: Banana Pancakes! The reason why South East Asia Mainland (Thailand, Laos, Cambodia, Vietnam, Myanmar) is called the Banana Pancake Trail is because this food is readily available everywhere. I wonder why it’s not even famous in the Philippines (I can only get them in Pancake House, which is not so cheap!)

Banana Pancakes come in different forms.

Most likely place to get sunburned: Phuket. It’s not just in the beaches where you’ll get toasted. It’s when you’re staying on top of the cruise ship to and from Ko Phi Phi Islands for island hopping. One runner-up is in Ayutthaya, Thailand where the sun is extremely high up and you’re biking around the city. I thought I would faint.

At Ko Phi Phi Don Island.

Sun-kissed on top of the cruise ship.

Another day to get dark. At Ayutthaya, Thailand.

Craziest boat ride: To and from Ko Phi Phi Don Island. The waves were just wild! Travelers are getting sea sick, puking here and there. Even if we were seated on top of the boat, huge water splashes still drenched us!

Longest day: Day 1 to Day 2. We touched down past midnight. Got out of the airport around 1:30am. We went straight to Khao San Road to look for a guesthouse. Still went out for drinks after finding New Joe Guesthouse. Few hours of sleep. Woke up. Check-out. Went around Bangkok by 9:30am. (Got scammed by cab driver – time waster!). The Grand Palace. Wat Pho. Rode the ferry along the Chao Phraya River. Chinatown. Check-in at Soi Wan St., Silom area. Coyote on Convent, Silom night out. Patpong scam. Went to a neutral place to huddle. Exhausted. And that was just the first day. Welcome to the backpacking life!

Most comfortable bus ride: Overnight bus from Phuket going back to Bangkok. We were seated at the back and we could recline our seats further and stretch our feet. It was one of the few longest sleeps I had in the whole trip.

Best Run-for-your-life moment: Catching the train to Nong Khai, Thailand going to Laos. It was just like in the movies! We got to the train station just in the nick of time and the train has already started moving slowly. Man, we were chasing it with our backpacks like crazy! Thank God we were able to hop on!

First “I miss home” moment: Arriving at Vang Vieng, Laos. This place is a paradox. It has wifi but no celfone signal (well, no available roaming partner for Globe). It has lots of booze, but no supply of water. It is very scenic—the limestone mountains backdrop, the flowing Nam Song river, a quaint local town, but the place can get loud and wild. Life here is very slow-paced but when you leave, it seems like your stay was just too quick.

Our guesthouse overlooking the flooded Nam Song river with limestone mountains on the background.

Backpackers bathing in the rain?

Longest time without a bath: 3 days. From Phuket to sleeper bus to Bangkok (Thursday). Then one day around Bangkok again, to sleeper train to Laos (Friday). Then first day in Laos (Saturday). We only got our baths Saturday late night when the limited water supply in Vang Vieng was up.

Best chill place: At the Valentine restaurant at Vang Vieng, Laos playing Friends marathon. Gosh, I missed TV!

Friends playing on TV.

Worst far-flung place to get stranded: Still in Vang Vieng. We almost did! The rain NEVER stopped even for a single second we were there (Thanks, tropical depression Haima). Since we could no longer do caving, tubing, or biking around town, we decided to go back to the capital city, Vientiane a day earlier. But since there were no buses were passing by because of floods, we had to stay one more night—with no water. God knows how intense my prayers were when I was there.

Best place to party: Jaidee’s bar and restaurant in Vang Vieng, Laos. It’s where we met a lot of fellow backpackers from ALL OVER. It’s where different worlds meet. It’s where I met solo travelers and students Katrin and Sebastian from Austria and Canada; Eric, a radiologist from New Orleans; Liam, a travel blogger who has quit his job to travel from Canada; Paul, a lifeguard from Australia; Adam, a bartender from Sweden, and more! Then, there’s also Angkor What? in Pub Street, Siem Reap. Yeah, that one was a happy place too. No pun intended.

At Jaidee's Bar in Laos.

At Angkor What? in Siem Reap.

Most grueling bus ride: From Vientiane to Vang Vieng. 4 ½ hours (2pm to past 6pm).

Most grueling sawngtheaw ride: From Vang Vieng back to Vientiane (8am to 12:30pm). This journey is supposed to be via bus but this is the only option available at that time. Imagine a small pick-up truck with two benches at the back.

Most grueling train ride: Overnight train from Thai-Lao border to Bangkok. 12 hours sitting, only fan room available. We tried to find every sleeping position that is comfortable, but we could not (except Nessa—she could always steal some sleep anywhere.)

No reclining seats, no aircon.

Oddest place to take a shower: In the Nong Khai train station going back to Bangkok. It costs 10 THB. We just had to grab this opportunity more than buying dinner because we badly needed it.

Best place to catch the break of dawn: Angkor Wat, Siem Reap, Cambodia. We started the day young at 5am. The crowds were light, the queues were short, the place was cool to walk in. And that was just the beginning of a beautiful day.



The sunrise was like a concert. This spot by a small lake was the best seat in the house.

Most jaw-dropping place I’ve been to: The Temples of Angkor. It’s the heart and soul of Cambodia. It’s the skeleton of what used to be a huge and mighty Khmer empire that extended from Myanmar to Vietnam. I couldn’t imagine its grandeur in their glory days during the 1st to 8th century.

Feel the faces staring at you at the Bayon inside Angkor Thom.

Feel like you're on set of Tomb Raider in Ta Phrom.

Easiest place to converse in English: Cambodia. Khmers are actually easy to understand and they’re articulate. I noticed there were numerous international schools in Phnom Penh.

Creepiest place I’ve been to: The Killing Fields of Choeng Ek, Phnom Pehn, Cambodia. This place gave me the chills, I tell you. The mass graves, the tall white stupa which encases the skulls and clothes found in the fields, the eerie silence. This was where approximately 17,000 men, women, and children were executed during Pol Pot’s regime.


Mass graves.

The museum I wouldn’t forget: Tuol Sleng (or S-21) Museum in Phnom Penh, Cambodia. In the mid-70’s, Pol Pot’s forces turned this school to a security prison (S-21). Checkered floors, single rusty bed, and disturbing black and white prisoner photos fill the rooms. Cambodia has been to heaven and hell—you can marvel at the divine temples of Angkor in Siem Reap then you can be disturbed by the crimes of the past in Phnom Penh.


Inside Tuol Sleng museum.

Coolest place to walk in: Ho Chi Minh City. I love the trees around the city. Walking around downtown HCMC in a day is just a breeze!



Most dangerous streets to walk in: Still in Ho Chi Minh City. Motorbikes drive right past at you out of nowhere. We received warning to sling our bags on our shoulders because of snatchers on motorbikes.

It's a parade of motorbikes everyday.

Nicest locals we’ve met along the way: There’s Beau, a Thai in 37 Thalang in Phuket Town, who’s very accommodating and friendly (and who did my laundry); there’s the Kuya Tuk-tuk driver who patiently took us to Silom, he never gave up even if we got lost several times; there’s “Mader” of Freddy’s guesthouse in Silom who’s very endearing to us and reminded to take care of our belongings (I thought she’ll give us a curfew but she just gave us the key to the gate); there’s Nik of 11 Happy guesthouse in Phnom Penh who had a lot of stories and speaks good English.


This backpacking trip was not a vacation. Far away from leisure. It was WORK. It was a constant decision-making, budgeting, making transactions, being out of my comfort zone. I did things I never thought I would. It was the socializing, new learnings, not knowing what to expect, suspense, drama, laughter, one adventure after the next that made it all worthwhile—that made it the best 14 days of my life. :)

Saturday, June 11, 2011

The Art of Packing

Packing. It's my least favorite thing to do when I'm about to travel. If there’s anything I’d want to put off ‘til the last minute, it’s that. But of course I can’t do without this! I have to force myself then I end up piling up my clothes in my luggage that when I get to my destination, I realize that 1) I don’t like the clothes I brought with me, or 2) I brought too much clothes, or 3) I don’t have enough. There's just really a lack of planning.

This ALWAYS happens for my business trips since it’s already become routinary. Haha! But for my “personal” ones, the travels that I’m REALLY excited about, I tend to pack early. I actually even imagine what I would wear, what goes with what, should I just leave some things at home…

Now that our Big Trip is just around the bend, I’m posed with a new challenge: How should I pack my stuff with just ONE BACKPACK? What should I bring?

Friends, it’s checklist time. :)

- Passport and laminated copy of passport
- Plane tickets
- Credit cards / atm / money
- Toothbrush / toothpaste
- Soap
- Towel (Aquazorb)
- Shampoo (2-in-1 shampoo and conditioner sachets)
- Underwear
- Socks
- 3 shirts (1 dri-fit, 2 cotton shirts)
- 1 pair of cargo pants
- 1 pair of shorts, 1 board shorts
- 1 dress
- Jacket
- Cap
- Sunglasses
- Swimwear
- Water bottle
- Flip flops and Vibram
- Mobile phone (Nokia) / charger / universal adaptor
- Nikon camera / SD cards / charger / extra battery
- Notebook and pen
- Mirror
- Flashlight
- A thin blanket / malong
- Sunblock
- Safety pins
- Garbage bag
- Flash disk
- Combination lock and wire
- Lonely planet book

Medical kit:
- Anti-diarrhea medicine (Imodium / Diatabs)
- Laxative (Dulcolax)
- Aspirin
- Paracetamol
- Band aid
- Tiger balm
- Motion sickness pills (Bonamine)
- Vitamins

Keep numbers and documents handy:
- Credit card / atm / insurance hotlines
- Doctor / telco provider / airline / airline ticket numbers
- Telephone numbers of Philippine embassies in each country and Blas Ople Policy Center
- Trusted family / friends telephone numbers
- Email addresses
- Save important documents at email / memory stick

Make 2 photocopies (place in different places):
- Passport
- Airline tickets
- Driver’s license / IDs
- Visas (if applicable)

Thanks to Robert Alejandro, he has this checklist in his book, Backpack.

I even Googled this. Here’s what a CouchSurfer has to say: You are what you carry.

Another interesting site on the art and science of traveling light: OneBag.com

It's just a week from now! I'm halfway done. ;)

* * *
Image from: Threadless Tees.

Saturday, June 4, 2011

Wedding bells a’ringin’!

As June brides walk down the aisle for this “wedding month” of June, I’m sure wedding coordinators, photographers, caterers, singers, flower arrangers, and wedding venues are all fully-booked serving their respective clients. Though June is the most popular wedding month, I personally haven’t attended a wedding on June. I’ve gone to weddings on a December (another peak month for weddings), summer, even on the rainy months of September and October. But regardless of the month, weddings will always be a special occasion for me. You could say that I’ve always been the bridesmaid but not the bride, even so, I’m giddy preparing and participating in a friend’s wedding. It also makes me daydream on how my own wedding will be… ;)

One of the most memorable for me so far were the last two where I was one of the back-up photographers. What’s more, they are destination weddings of two of my good friends.

Cai and Nowell: A Beautiful Wedding in Boracay

On the wedding day itself, my friends and I woke up that morning seeing dark clouds hovering over us. You know how unpredictable the weather can be in the month of September. Being lovers of the clear warm waters of Boracay, we went swimming in the beach and in a little while, it started pouring!

It went on for about 15 to 30 minutes. And just like that, there was like a spotlight over us. Heaven started opening up and the skies cleared up. It was a beautiful day indeed!

Some of us can't get over swimming. We just love the waters! By noontime, we saw the main photographer taking photos of Cai's wedding dress in front of Discovery Shores. I took my own camera and started taking shots as well...


WOW!!! Who would've thought that was just created in less than a week?!


By 4:30 pm, people started coming in, removing their sandals, taking pictures, anticipating for the ceremony. After several minutes, Cai finally walked down the aisle.






Just seeing her made me teary-eyed... (To think that she was still sick the night before...) God makes all things beautiful in His time. :)







I witnessed a simple yet beautiful wedding, with the Boracay sunset as its backdrop. :)


Kristine and Tim: A Wedding Made in Singapore

I had the privilege of shooting Kristine while she was preparing for her wedding. I was in her Hilton hotel room at a little past 12 noon and it was my first time to commute to Orchard Rd. in Singapore. (Tim was in a different venue, I couldn't take pictures of him).








I also got to ride her *huge* Chrysler bridal car in the passenger seat. "Libs, kinakabahan talaga ako (I'm really nervous)," she told me. "Ano ka ba, 'wag ka nerbyosin! (Don't be nervous!)" I said while I was shooting her. She thought that something could happen in her wedding like those you watch in America's Funniest Videos. So that's how a bride feels like... :P




By 5:00pm (or so, I lost track of time), the wedding ceremony started in St. Theresa and I heard one of the most sincerest vows. I got teary-eyed actually but I had to continue to capture those moments in camera.




After church, we got back to Hilton immediately, this time for the tea ceremony. I appreciate this special moment because their family and loved ones were personally saying their well-wishes and bilins to the couple as they ceremonially drank tea.


Reception came, we were then in the Hilton rooftop (nice view of the city outside!). I was so looking forward to the Chinese menu! They danced, they sang (Cruisin'! -- That's our fave videoke duet song!), they did their speech. I'm so happy for my friend Kristine. She's blessed with good siblings and a loving father, and now, she has very wonderful in-laws. And the best part is, she has Tim.




What makes these weddings special is not just the location or whatever bells and whistles it has. It’s the sincerity and the promise it brings that day and everyday. Everything is worth the wait. :)

Thursday, June 2, 2011

Banana Pancake trail... Coming very soon!

I love pancakes but I honestly haven't tried any banana pancakes! It was only last night I surprisingly learned (in the Backpacking talk at R.O.X. High Street) that in our neighboring countries, this food is readily available almost everywhere... in guesthouses, cafes and restaurants catering to backpackers as a form of sweet breakfast.

Ooooohhh...

Hence, the South East Asia Mainland backpacking trail was given that unique nickname. There is no actual route or road to follow the Banana Pancake trail. It’s rather a growing list of places in Southeast Asia with rising influx of travellers and backpackers. It can stretch from the backpacking epicenter hub in Thailand (Khao San Road!), to Laos, Cambodia, Vietnam, Malaysia, Singapore, Indonesia, Philippines, and certain parts of India and China.

I can’t wait to taste the banana pancake and discover its trail really soon…

Apparently, there are other essential backpacking trails you can take, based again on Lonely Planet. I think I’d like to take the North to South Island trail in New Zealand next since my sister is now there. ;) Another dream trail is The Gringo Trail that refers to a string of places in South America (Mexico, Costa Rica, Peru, etc.) normally taken by “Gringos”, a slang word for Americans and other foreigners in Latin America. This culminates to the Inca trail by visiting the lost Inca city of Machu Picchu in Peru.

From last night’s talk, it’s also interesting to learn that one of the earliest forms of backpacking trails was during the ‘60s and ‘70s which is called The Hippie trail—these were cheap travels taken by hippies from Europe overland to and from southern Asia, mainly India and Nepal. They journeyed then by thumbing (or hitchhiking) or through low-cost bus or train transport.

So we’re still part of this whole hippie movement even up to now… ;)

There was this newly-wed couple back in the ‘70s who wanted to cross Europe and Asia overland, up to Australia for their honeymoon. Back then everyone thought it was impossible. But they proved them wrong and it was indeed THE trip of a lifetime they will never forget. Right after, they wrote their first travel guide entitled Across Asia on the Cheap. This couple was Tony and Maureen Wheeler and that was the beginning of their Lonely Planet empire.

'All you've got to do is decide to go and the hardest part is over. So go!' -- Across Asia on the Cheap philosophy

I AM going! So see you in the Banana pancake trail soon!